Manu, Cusco
Amazon. Boris Gómez Luna "From the
high Andean grasslands in Acjanacu near Cusco, in certain occassions,
in the distance, visitors may see the jungle rivers as thin silver
ribbons flowing towards the vast Amazon Basin"
"Acjanacu" in Quechua, (the Inca tongue) means "welcome with chicha ". This name describes the traditional encounter in this particular spot of the highland Andean people and the lowland rainforest natives. For the contemporary visitor this is the starting point of a singular adventure to discover the natural history to the East of the Andes. The Andean grasslands at almost 12,000 ft. above sea level, the elfin forests, the cloud forests and the mid-elevation rainforest or "jungle eye-brow" in the Manu region constitute the best preserved, largest, most diverse, and most accesible sub-tropical habitat transect near Cusco, the old Inka capital. This new Peruvian tour product is located at only 20 minutes of flight from Cusco to the recently re-inaugurated airstrip of Patrias, across the southeastern andes of Perú. Alternatively this exotic region is accesible from Cusco by road, across the Andes near Paucartambo and into the sub- tropical valley of the Kosñipata River.
"The eastern Andean mountains, covered by a soft carpet of moss, lichen, bromeliads and tree ferns are inhabited by exotic creatures such us the Spectacled Bear, Black and Chestnut Eagles, Tairas , Woolly Monkeys, Cock-of-the Rock, Umbrella Birds, and Glass Frogs" The upper-elevation forests to the East of the andes are inhabited by communities of animals and plants adapted to narrow "habitat strips", well defined by altitude above sea level, rainfall, temperature and relative hummidity. The eastern Andean mountains, covered by a soft carpet of moss, lichen, bromeliads and tree ferns are inhabited by exotic creatures such us the Spectacled Bear, Black and Chestnut Eagles, Tairas , Woolly Monkeys, Cock-of-the Rock, Umbrella Birds, and Glass Frogs" Llama
Taxis, mountain biking descents to the jungle, tropical white-water
rivers for the expert kayakers, rafters and also for families looking
for a fun but safe river experience, comfortable lodges, and experienced
guides and researchers
A few hundred
meters of abrupt descent along a narrow un-paved road carved on
the mountain rock, brings us in contact with animals as exotic as
the Cock-of-the Rock, a sort of "Feathered Dandy", doned
with a bright-red crest and chest and elegant tuxedo-like rump feathers
in shades of grey. Groups of 15-20 males of this species attend,
twice a day to a fleeting rendez-vous in "leks" or traditional
mating and socializing grounds.
dominant males. The other males, less charismatic birds, with less developed dancing and singing attributes, must keep trying, desperately, every new day. These singular event takes place at the break-of-dawn and also during a more ephemeral period of time at dusk. These birds may be watched without causing any disturbance, from within 15-20 yards from well hidden blinds in the cloud forest. Not less exotic, although not as well known as the Cock-of-the Rock are the "Umbrella Birds" in dark and shining blue feathers. Their heads are decorated with an umbrella-llike crown of feathers and their chests show a "cravate" or feathered tie. The Umbrella birds occupy a very specific niche along these cloud forest transect, and despite their more secretive habits, compared to their relatives, the Cock-of-the Rock, they may be seen frequently in traditional perching trees along the Kosñipata River. Later in a typical
morning in the cloud forests, the visitors to these well protected
forests may be able to spot troops of Woolly Monkeys moving across
the forest in daring and acrobatic maneuvers as they defy the steep,
forested slopes of the Andes. Not far from here visitors may observe
family groups of Brown Capuchin Monkeys whose extraordinary facial
expressions seem to quickly change between sadness, fury, frustration
and joy. Humans display a somewhat similar and extraordinary change
of facial expressions when watching an intense football match. The bizarre flight of a Lyre-Tailed Nightjar is a surrealistic experience. This nocturnal creature has a bisected tail three times longer than its body. With the last sun rays reflected in the usually dense cloud cover, the Lyre-Tailed Nightjar initiates a frenetic flight without any recognizable pattern in its pursuit for flying insects which also come alive at this time in this twilight world. Other strange and elusive inhabitants of this enchanted forest are the Mountain Toucans colored in a palette of delicate hues of lavender, blue and yellow pastels, also Golden-Headed Quetzals and Blue-Crowned Mot-Mots who frequenlty perch right in front of us as messagers from Chronos.The pendular movement of their tails, reminding us that time also goes by in this world enveloped in a delicate veil of clouds which look heavy and too tired to try once more to escape from their masters, the Andes. All of these wonders and wildlife sighting opportunities can only be found and interpreted by a group of experienced biologists and naturalists, many of them trained in field scientific research in the Manu National Park since the early 70´s
"Llama Taxis, mountain biking descents to the jungle, tropical white-water rivers for the expert kayakers, rafters and also for families looking for a fun but safe river experience, comfortable lodges, and experienced guides and researchers" Twenty years of work in the conservation of these forests by private NGO´s and the entrepreneurs from the tour operator´s union "Ecotur Manu" have made possible to offer the world with the best-preserved and most accessible transect between the grasslands and the cloud forests in the south-eastern Andes near Cusco and perhaps the continent.
Several local Mayors, the University of San Antonio Abad del Cusco, Pro-Manu (a project between the European Union and the Peruvian State) and the Regional Board of the Tourism Industry have joined to cooperate in order to look for economic alternatives to support the local people and build a management model for nature tourism that combines our living culture, and our spectacular natural history. In addition to the exotic cloud forest flora and fauna, the region now offers a unique Llama Taxi ride. This environmentally-friendly method of transport is operated by the highland peasant community of Jajahuana, who neighbors the Manu Park, and who offer two tourism circuits with spectacular and dramatic landscapes. The first ride takes 15 km. between Acjanacu and the Amazonian viewpoint of Tres Cruces. The second ride, of flexible length (you may go back to your ground transport at any moment) between Acjanacu and the Manu Cloud Forests.
For the adventurous spirits to the Kosñipata River Valley, after a Llama-powered ride, there is the option to continue your descent in a sturdy mountain bike. This is a down-hill journey, in a reasonably, well-maintained road, stopping at will and watching the constantly changing scenery as you descend. The visitor can also decide the duration of his two-wheel adventure. In the cool, mosquito-free cloud forests in the sub-basins of the Union and San Pedro Rivers, you will find comfortable lodges and tented campsites, with idyllic locations, private bathrooms with hot water, sauna, delicious food and excelent opportunities to observe wildlife. These facilities offer you with a base to rest, relax and get ready for your next adventures. The little town of Pilcopata in the flatlands of the Kosñipata Valley also offers a few hostels and restaurants offering good prices, basic accommodations and efficient services.
The Manu Cloud Forests offer Cusco´s visitors with the only four tropical white-water rivers accesible in less than one hour by plane and ground transport for the kayaking and rafting lovers. The Kosñipata, Tono, Keros and the Piñi-Piñi Rivers offer fun not only for the family but also for well-seasoned and experienced river-rats. Each one of these rivers can be rafted in different sections which have been scouted and explored since the late 80´s. Each river section offers different rapid levels and demands different rafting skills and techniques. This variety of rivers and river sections offer a tourism resource that may be enjoyed almost year round. If you are a river sport´s fanatic or aficionado you may spend an entire week exploring and enjoying these pristine rivers which originate in the heart of the untouched Manu National Park.
Finally, at the end of your adventure in the upper rain forests of the Cusco Amazon you now have the option of a short and spectacular fligth back to Cusco. In about 30´ minutes you may be enjoying a fancy hotel, sipping a pisco sour or dancing the night away, enjoying the cosmopolitan allure of America´s oldest city.
Cusco, the Inka capital is the gateway to the Manu. Come to discover the mistery of our cloud forests and learn about one of the most fascinating chapters of Peru´s natural history.
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